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Guy's Blog

Guy frequently keeps this blog updated with thoughts, challenges, interviews and more!

Category: Travel

I’m just back from a teaching trip to Seattle, and not too jet-lagged… which is good because I’m re-packing my bag for a trip to the Isle of Wight tomorrow. I’ll be spending the weekend walking round in enormous circles: two full circumnavigations of the island, totalling about 106km. Why, you may ask?

Well to start with, just to do something completely different. I don’t normally do any kind of monster endurance events. And while I was at it, I thought I’d raise some money for a good cause. What could be more important than educating children? It’s the silver bullet that solves so many problems. The charity I’m supporting is Room to Read, and you can find my fundraising page here.

Every little helps, and if you think this is a good idea, please also share the link with your friends.

I’ll write up the experience next week…

 

You can read more here about my preparation and pitfalls.

Boldness is a key virtue in swordsmanship, at least according to Fiore dei Liberi (and who am I to argue?). So I’d like to commend Adam Weller of Auckland Sword and Shield for having the wit and boldness to contact me and ask me to come to Auckland to teach a seminar for him. About a dozen enthusiasts from northern New Zealand congregated in a scout hall in Auckland for a day of dagger training, and another of longsword. It went extremely well, I thought, and as usual I let the students determine the content so we also covered the first six plays of abrazare in the beginning of day one. This laid an excellent base for us to build on. I moved on from Auckland having seen old friends and made new ones, and I hope given a boost to Fiore scholarship in the area.

I then got on another spine-wrecker (I mean aircraft) and tootled across the Tasman Sea to Sydney, home of my old friend and comrade in arms Paul Wagner, who hosted me for the week, and set up a series of evening classes for three of the Stoccata branches. Monday night we covered some Vadi longsword for Paul’s group; Wednesday we covered Fiore’s plays of the sword in one hand for Richard Cullinan’s group, and last night we did ‘how would Fiore counter Liechtenauer’ for Stuart McDermid’s group. As always, as a consulting swordsman, I let the organizers decide what they needed, and gave them that. What did I do on Tuesday, you may very well ask. Well, I spent Tuesday hanging out with a dear friend and her two glorious children, kicking a football in the garden, reading them stories, and generally catching up.  Teaching swordsmanship is the best job ever, obviously, but you’ve got to take time off sometimes!

Wednesday morning though was a revelation. My friend Alonya Mazoyer, whom I know through sword swinging, happens to be a very highly qualified SCUBA instructor, and while we were in New Zealand I mentioned that I’d never tried it. She took a day off work, organized the gear, and picked me up at 7am on Wednesday to go diving. We went to a little sandy beach in Sydney harbor, geared up, and got in the water. Then she wanted me to actually breathe in while my face was immersed. “Are you fucking nuts?” My whole body replied (my mouth didn’t). But obedience is a skill which I can apply when needed, and after a couple of tries, I managed it. Of course there was a regulator supplying air in my mouth at the time, but try telling my lizard brain that. We went through the key skill of breathing in and out in very shallow water, then went a bit deeper and did the three basic skills: remove and replace the regulator, recover the regulator after ‘dropping’ it, and get water out of the mask. Removing and replacing the regulator wasn’t so hard, but taking my goddam air supply and throwing it away was another opportunity to practice blind obedience in defiance of every instinct. But I managed it, just. Actually the hardest thing was clearing water out of my mask; it just didn’t want to go, because I was doing it wrong, water went in the wrong places (nose and eyes), and I broke for the surface. It took a minute to collect myself, then we went back down and repeated the drill until it was working, then “went for a swim”.

Under water, for about half an hour. Oh my.

We saw a baby Port Jackson shark. Pipefish, cuttlefish, really huge sea anemones, and lots of other things I’ll have to check my notes to recall the names of. This was awesome on every level: I was completely out of my element, out of my comfort zone, doing something really cool, plus I was dressed like James Bond. And it is really beautiful down there.

What next, you ask? I’m off on a plane in a few hours to Melbourne, where I’m teaching this weekend and Monday night at Gindi Wauchope’s school, Be there, or be square!

I’m flying back home (at last) on Tuesday, after three and a half weeks away from my girls. It’s been a wonderful trip, but I can’t wait to see them.

My reception committee: Jun Lin, Riri, Farhan and James. Robin is behind the camera (as always!)

I’ve been off on my wanderings again. I flew to Singapore on Sunday 22nd, and arrived at 5pm local time on the Monday, to be met by Robin (who runs PHEMAS, my Singapore branch), plus three visiting students from Malaysia, and one from Jakarta, who were all in town to come to my very short class that evening.

After a spot of dinner at the airport, we made our way to the Eurasian Community House, where PHEMAS has been making its home for the last ten years or so. About 25 students showed up for the class, from all over Singapore, and I did my best to run a good session for them, bearing in mind that for many it was their first exposure to Fiore. It seemed to go well, and they were very ready for the pizza delivery that arrived when we were done at 9pm.

The class: a motley crew of avid swordsmanship practitioners!

I spent Tuesday hanging out with Greg (PHEMAS’s glorious founder) and Robin, with a leisurely lunch with my cousin Jeremy, who has lived in Singapore for about 25 years. Then dinner in the evening with some of the new students, our new friend from Jakarta, and a couple of the old guard. Chilli Stingray for the win! The food in Singapore is simply awesome, and we finished it off back at Greg’s with the best straciatella ice cream I have ever eaten— made by Greg and his wife Lin. They produce it in their home out of top quality ingredients, and if you live in Singapore they’ll deliver it to your door… see Dancing Elephant Ice Cream for details!
Probably the best use of my time while I was there though was reading stories to a certain little girl…


On Wednesday evening I took the night flight to Sydney, changed there, and arrived in Wellington feeling surprisingly chipper. I attribute this to my ‘sleeping on planes’ kit. This includes my noise-cancelling headphones, an eye mask, and the Skydreamer pillow. Pillow is the wrong word; it’s two lumps of odd-shaped padding, that strap under your chin, and makes the world of difference to sleeping sitting up (your average sword student can’t afford to send their instructors across the planet in First Class). (Incidentally, if you’d be interested in a post about how I pack light for long trips, and actually sleep on planes, let me know in the comments.) At dinner that evening I had the great pleasure of meeting Dr. Manouchehr Moshtag Khorasani, author of over 100 articles and two extraordinary books on Persian arms, armour and martial arts. Having seen him teach, let me put it like this: I’d be delighted to fence him, but no way in hell I’d ever want to fight him.
I stayed the night at an alpaca farm just outside Wellington, which brought back memories of living in Peru.

Steve and Tam were lovely hosts, and Steve and I had plenty of time to chat before tooling off to the event that triggered this entire Odyssey: the New Zealand Sword Symposium. This was held at the Brookfield scout camp outside the capital, and I was teaching alongside people like Manouchehr, and Bede Dwyer, probably the pre-eminent world expert on Asian archery, as well as old friends Richard Cullinan, Colin McKinstry, and many others. The event was a delight, and the students in my class could not have been nicer to teach. I prevailed on Selwyn, the illustrious organiser, to promise to run the event again in two years, so it looks like I’ll be back this way then. I was too busy to get my phone out for photos of the event, sorry!
I think the greatest benefit I get from these events is meeting new colleagues and making new friends; the Kiwis have a gift for making one feel welcome. I’m staying at Lizzi Tremayne’s farm for a couple of days r+r before heading off to Auckland to teach a seminar this weekend. Lizzi is a horse vet turned novelist, as well as swinging a sword or two in her spare time.
If you’re in striking distance of Auckland, and fancy learning some Fiore dagger and longsword, come along! You can find the event sign-up here. See you there!

Every HEMA school has its own particular vibe, a culture and a way of being. I spent my last weekend in the New World at Valkyrie Martial Arts Assembly, teaching a longsword weekend; a day of Fiore and a day of Vadi. So far, so normal. But the Valkyrie vibe is quite unlike any other club or group I’ve come across, and it’s worth taking a minute to look at what, and why, that is.
In the first place, as the sign in the bathroom insisting that the loo seat belongs in the down position, “this is a matriarchy”. It is run by Courtney Rice, Kaja Sadowski, and Randy Packer, so at board level, that’s certainly the case. And it has the highest proportion of female to male students of any club I know (it’s about 45% women).

One of the hallmarks of a good place to train is that students are judged only on their attitudes and effort, never on results. I’ve never seen that more clearly demonstrated than at Valkyrie. It was amazing, and it is certainly the result of very clear and deliberate policies that are put explicitly in practice. I hope that any person coming to my classes feels safe and welcome. I know that that is not always the case. But I think it probably is the case at this school.
I begin every class saying that I’ll consider it successful if everyone finishes training healthier than they started it, and the way to get there is a zero tolerance policy on macho bullshit. Because swords do tend to bring a bit of macho bullshit out of people (myself most definitely included). But I never saw a breath of it, over two full days of teaching there. It was amazing. If you ever get the chance to go, do it.
The character of the place was never clearer than at the impromptu post-seminar party, where we ate sushi and pizza, drank really good whisky, and even went outside for a civilized pipe. (I think Randy has Hobbit blood in him somewhere.) A party at which I was prevailed upon to demonstrate Whisky and Cigars again…

https://youtu.be/CSajtDle_EE
So, thanks to Courtney, Kaja, Randy, and the many excellent students who made the seminar a real pleasure to teach. And a particular tip of the hat to Chris, who soldiered on through both days with only a couple of months prior experience behind them.

I look forward to my return!

They say travel is all about having new experiences. Well… having a week to fill between my Seattle and Vancouver seminars, I thought I’d take the opportunity to get back in the saddle. My friend Jen Landels (she of Pulp Literature fame, and as yet the only guest blogger on this site) runs the Academie Duello mounted combat program. Yes, they have a mounted combat program. Oh my. She has been inviting me ‘out to the barn’ every time we’ve met, and I finally took her up on it.
We began with a little archery practice, on foot, just to get familiar with the specific way of shooting from horseback.
Then the riding began. It’s been a full decade since I last rode but the basic balance was there, and the lovely, stoical Flavia didn’t mind my jouncing about on her back too much. At least, she never shook me off.
After quite a while of simply getting used to being back on a horse, Jen had me do some interesting mounted warm-ups, basically learning to reach and stretch and do things with my back and arms, without affecting my seat. Because you tell the horse what to do with your arse and feet.
Once that was established, I had a go shooting from horseback, just at a walk, and with Jen leading the horse the first couple of rounds.

Note the back arm.

It was awesome. I am now 99% Mongolian, honest.

Then the swords came out.
I should mention that these are nylon wasters. Yup, you read that right. As I’ve written before, plastic swords are for children. But also for novice mounted combatants *to avoid hurting the horse*. Because (as Jen put it) the horses didn’t ask for it.
We went through a couple of Fiore’s plays, and then I asked her to run me through the things she would normally cover in a beginner’s class. We did some simple attacks and counters, first with me staying still and her coming towards me, and then with us both moving forwards. She then left the beginners course behind, and we did some gentle freeplay.

Word to the wise: do NOT let Jen get behind you. She’ll slice you up like salami.
It was a wonderful way to spend a morning- if you ever get the chance to try it, do! Jen is a great instructor, and there is just nothing like having a horse under you.

It has been a splendid few days in Seattle so far, kicked off by a trapeze lesson with the excellent Milla Marshall at SANCA. The place was pretty empty, so there was no-one to hold the camera (Milla was busy spotting me through the tricky bits), but we did manage to catch this new trick on video:

There's no better way to get the aeroplane out of your spine! This was my third class with Milla, and I can highly recommend her. I also managed to get one go on the flying trapeze on Friday, so that's my adrenal glands thoroughly exercised.

On Thursday evening, Dan from Lonin took me shooting; it's been a while since I last shot, but I didn't disgrace myself. Dan is a fan of old British militaria (up to and including driving a 1980s military Land Rover), and he kindly let me blast away with his (semi-auto) Sterling SMG, his Browning Hi-Power (my favourite 9mm pistol), a WWII Webley revolver, and, to cap it all, a WWI era Webley .455, just like my grandfather carried in the Great War.

I spent most of Friday working on my new Vadi book (it's not all fun and games!). I'm reading around the period quite widely, and came across an interesting light history of the Medici banking empire on my brother-in-law's bookshelves. Medici Money by Tim Parks is well worth a look if you're interested. It's not a mighty and definitive scholarly work, but it explained some aspects of Italian financial history I hadn't grasped before, and it's a fun read. It's by the same Tim Parks that wrote Teach us to Sit Still, a very personal journey into meditation. As my regular readers know, I meditate a lot; if the Vipassana stuff Tim talks about is a bit heavy, you could try this instead.

While I'm on the subject of books: I'm staying at Neal Stephenson's house, and came across an advance reader's copy of his next novel (co-written with Nicole Galland), The Rise and Fall of D.O.D.O.. Let me put it this way- I meant to just scan the opening pages, but am now 400 pages in… It's classic Neal, in that you can't really categorise it, but it's a lot like Reamde in tone, with a bit of Baroque cycle in content, and it manages to fuse both classic SF elements (quantum physics stuff) with magic, in a way that's just a delight to read. Yes, we're friends so I'm biased, but I would never recommend a book just because a friend wrote it.

Friday night I was teaching in my Seattle sword home, the Lonin loft at SANCA, then all day Saturday (Fiore stuff, with a bit of Vadi), and all day yesterday (I.33 in the morning, Capoferro in the afternoon).  A big shout out to Dan Weber for organising the whole thing, Alex Hanning for running the I.33 group, and Michael Heveran for keeping the rapier flag flying amidst all this medieval stuff. Sunday's seminars were graced by Devon Boorman and three of his Duello students, one of whom, Greg Reimer, is a superb graphic designer who has taken my free Fabris photos and laid them out with Tom Leoni's 2006 translation… I have an advance reader copy of the first section, so it looks like I'll have plenty to do on my flight home next week!

But before then, I'm off to Vancouver tomorrow, to teach seminars at Valkyrie, and, while I'm there, go horse riding for the first time in about a decade… wish me luck! I'll report back in due course. If you're in or around Vancouver next weekend, come and train!

 

Teaching a I.33 class in the Lonin loft.

A recurring theme in my life is a contact from someone who narrowly missed a seminar with me in some far-flung outpost because they didn’t know it was happening. So let me take a minute of your time to let you know about two events coming up in the Pacific North West:

This weekend, April 29-30th, I’ll be teaching in Seattle; Saturday’s class will be Fiore and Vadi, Sunday morning I.33 sword and buckler, and Sunday afternoon Capoferro rapier.

Please email info@lonin.org to register!

This is a regular bi-annual event; I expect to be back in Seattle in the autumn.

The following weekend, May 6th and 7th, I’ll be teaching for the first time at the Valkyrie Martial Arts Assembly in Vancouver BC. Valkyrie is the school of the author of one of my favourite HEMA blogs,  boxwrestlefence.com, Randy Packer, with Courtney Rice and Kaja Sadowski. Randy and Kaja have both shown me physical training exercises that I can’t do, so I’m looking forward to some useful cross-pollination.

It’s been two years since I last taught in Canada (at VISS 2015), and I don’t know when I’ll be back, so if you’re in the area don’t miss it!

Day one will be a beginner-friendly introduction to Fiore’s longsword material on Saturday May 6th.

Day two will be a full day of Vadi’s longsword on Sunday May 7th.

You can register here!

I’ll make sure that anyone that comes on the Saturday has the necessary training by the end of the day to get value out of Sunday’s more advanced session, so by all means sign up for both! (Plus, you get a discount!)

In every case, while the system we will cover is established in advance (eg Vadi Longsword), the exact content of the seminar is planned with the attendees on the day; we take a few minutes to survey the class and take requests, which I then work into a scheme for the class training. This works very well, and in almost every case the students get exactly what they came for.

If you have friends in the Seattle or Vancouver areas that you think might want to know about these seminars, please share this post with them!

I hope to see you there!

 

I was expecting to be far more nostalgic about seeing Helsinki again after nine months away. It’s by far the longest time I’ve been absent from my city since 2001. There are changes here and there- most excitingly perhaps a bespoke shoemaker has opened a workshop near Kamppi. Good thing I’ve been too busy to start thinking about hand-made brogues…
In the months away I’ve found that the things I have missed most are the building regulations (actual insulation!! Plumbing!! oh, the plumbing!!), and the decent network coverage. But those are the barest shadow of a flicker of a loss in comparison to the people I have missed.
I came here to shoot video for my new online Longsword course, which went very well, and to teach a seminar for the Helsinki branch of the school, which went even better. But these were really just excuses and means to pay for seeing my chosen extended family. I didn’t get to see everyone (even my godson was forsaken, now that he lives in Hameenlinna— next trip, Otso, I promise), but I did get to spend proper, unbroken one-on-one hours with most of my closest friends, and saw several others in a less concentrated way at the school party on Saturday.
The great advantage to a flying visit like this is that there is no re-scheduling for next week, next month— it’s now or maybe never. So apart from the four full days of working time, I spent almost all my waking hours just catching up with people I love. And, given that I spent my working time with some of my longest-serving students, people I have clocked hundreds or even thousands of hours of training time with, well, that counts too.
If I didn’t see you this trip (Otso, Topi, Heli, Jari, Tanda, y’all know who you are), then a) bug the SHMS about organising another seminar so I just have to come back, and b) drop me a line to let me know how deeply offended you are that I didn’t see you this time, so I’ll be sure to arrange something with you next time.

Or just get on a goddamn plane to London!

They're calling my flight; time to go.

Näkemiin!

You may recall I went to Scotland a couple of weeks ago, and on that trip a select few got to travel to Glasgow to visit the Museum Resource Centre. There we met a curator, Dr Ralph Moffat, who kindly opened case after case of swords, guns, and armour, for us to (literally) play with. One piece at a time, of course, and no actual murder allowed, but still, a morning exceptionally well spent.

As you can see from this photo, I was miserable the whole time.
happy-guy

That's a cinquedea, one of my favourite kinds of blades. They are just so in-your-face, unapologetic, and dear god you don't want ever to be hit by one.

Though Phil Crawley, who organised the trip, seems entirely unconcerned about being stabbed by an early 17th century rapier (a blissful sword- much more agile than some others I've handled, but a proper killing blade nonetheless).

stabbing-phil

(I snagged this picture from Facebook, so if whoever took it would like credit, let me know).

For me one of the highlights, and the impetus for this post, was this extraordinary weapon.

boar-sword-hiltWhich has a blunt blade and a spear tip:

 

boar-sword-tip

And two almighty horns sticking out the sides!

boar-sword-second-crossguard

boar-sword-horns

boar-sword

As you can see, the blade is completely blunt- it's only function is to create space between the spear tip and the handle. This is the only historical example of a boar sword with its secondary crossguard fitted that I've ever got to handle. Why am I so excited? Because Fiore shows one, here:

boar-sword-in-il-fior-di-battaglia

(From folio 24v of Il Fior di Battaglia, Getty MS.) The purpose of the secondary crossguard is to stop a wild boar from running up your blade after you've stabbed it, and goring you (as Mordred did to King Arthur in Le Morte d'Arthur).

This boar sword is obviously a lot later than 1410; I'd put it about 1550-1600, from Germany (experts please chime in if I'm wrong), but still, I hope it's catnip to us Fiore fans.

On the subject of Fiore: I do hope you've seen this awesome piece of work: the Fiore app for Android! it's basically a concordance of the four surviving manuscripts, and oh my, what a handy resource it is!

I spent the last few days in Guernsey, recovering from launching my latest project. I was invited by my friend the Early Music legend Andrew Lawrence-King to hang out for a few days and attend a concert he was giving with fellow legends Jordi Savall and Frankie McGuire.
Guernsey is very much an island, defined by the sea, and Andrew is a keen sailor. Within an hour or so of landing we were on his yacht, Continuo, and I even got to steer. I love being completely out of my element, doing something I know nothing about, so helming a yacht at sea hit that spot beautifully!

That's me helming Continuo, peering round the sails to make sure we don't hit anything. Andrew in his natural habitat, and making sure I don't prang his baby.

I spent most of the time chatting with Andrew, in places like this:

The view from the cafe where we had lunch.

And this:

The perfect visual accompaniment to good convesation and a G and T made with Blue Bottle, the local gin.

At dinner on Sunday I met one of Andrew’s friends, one of Guernsey’s most important citizens. A financier? No. A politician? Hell no. Buz is a seaman through and through, captain of the RNLI lifeboat, and of the Ambulance boat, and of his own muscular vessel, the Access Challenger, which is available to charter. Buz invited me along on a charter trip to  Sark (a nearby island) and back, and it was a fantastic experience. Buz bought Access as a burned out wreck, and re-built her into the kind of ship that can go out and get shit done in just about any conditions. Perhaps the best way to describe him then is this: if your ship was sinking, but you knew Buz was on his way, you’d stop worrying and break out the beer while you wait.
The concert on Monday night was amazing, as any traditional music fan would expect. Andrew, Jordi and Frankie put on an extraordinary performance, but for me the highlight was seeing Frankie play his bodhran. Holy crap, it was a revelation. He makes that little drum sound like an entire drumkit, and by manipulating the skin with his left hand, he plays tunes on it. I was astonished. I have the CD Celtic Viol II, which Frankie plays on, but I just hadn’t twigged that he was doing it all on one instrument.
Throughout the trip, Katerina Antonenko looked after us all, down to cooking breakfasts served as smiley faces (if you’d been good). This just after finishing work on building Andrew’s latest instrument, a great big Irish harp that had its concert debut on the Monday.  She actually made last-minute adjustments to the sounding box (a shaving here, a shaving there, and the instrument gains an new depth of sound; another revelation) while I was there, so I got to hold it still while she worked. As if that wasn’t enough, she then took me kayaking on Tuesday afternoon; Frankie and Andrew took the high road (a cliff path), Katja and I took the low road (the sea by kayak), and they were in the pub before us.
What a trip! Old friends, new friends, new experiences, virtuoso performances, and lots of wine. Wow.

Sorry, no swords to report. But you might imagine that hanging out with folk who have been recreating a different historical art at such a high level was deeply stimulating. Watch this space!

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